Creating your own shield press.

I had read so many articles on the web about constructing a shield, and for curved shields they all said the same thing. Either spend way too much energy trying to tie your shield to a tree or barrel to get the curve, or 'find someone with a shield press to make one for you.' None of them explained how to make the press to get those nifty curved wooden shields. This was an unacceptable answer for me, I wanted to construct my own press so I could turn out the blanks and possibly make some profit on the side. So there began my quest for constructing a shield press. Luckily for me the household (House Persistant) had a shield press and the people who knew what it takes to make a press, and what not to do.

Something to keep in mind before beginning construction. You will be using two quartersheets of plywood, (4' X 2') for each shield, so the press has to be a bit bigger then that. The two sheets will be glued on one side of each board with ordinary wood glue and smashed together like a P,B & J sandwhich.

Materials for construction.

• (4) - 2"x 4" x 3' boards
• (5) - 2"x 6" x 4' boards
• (4) - 2' long 1/2" threaded steal bars
• (4) - Wing nuts and washers to fit the tops of the bars
• (4) - Caps and washers for the bottoms of the bars
• Nails or screws to assemble the press
• Duct Tape
• Drill with 5/8" drill bit
• A skill saw or table saw
• Place to make a lot of noise and a big mess without too much complaint

Design

There are a couple of ways to go about constructing your shield press, but the way I will be writting about will have 5, 2x6's cut 4 feet long, running the length of you plywood (with the grain of the wood). The 2x6's will be attached to the 2x4 spread about 4" on center.

How To

To begin construction each 2x6 has to be cut at the proper angles. This may very depending on the depth of the arch you want in your shield. We will be making it approximitly 1.5" deep. Lay your 2x6's on there sides and mark "TOP" on one side of each board.

• (1) - 2'x 6'x 4' cut at 90 degrees, 5" from the top side of the board.
• (2) - 2'x 6'x 4' cut at 70 degrees, 3.5" from the top side of the board.
• (2) - 2'x 6'x 4' cut at 50 degrees, 2" from the top side of the board.

After the 2x6's have been cut, Duct Tape them together so you dont forget which one goes to what pieces. This will make things a lot easier in the long run.

Center the TOP side of the 90 degree cut 2x6 on the 2x4 about 1' from the end of the 2x6. Do the same for the other end of the same 2x6. So you will end up with the two 2x4's screwed to the 2x6 1 foot from either end.

Next screw the TOP side of the 70 degree cut 2x6's on either side of the first attached 2x6, also 1 foot from the ends. Attach them 3 inches away from the middle 2x6. MAKE SURE THE LOWER SIDE OF THE 70 DEGREE CUT IS FACING THE CENTER. Do the same to the other end also.

Next screw the TOP side of the 50 degree cut 2x6's on either side of the outside 2x6's also 1 foot from the ends. Attach them 3 inches away from the outside 2x6's. MAKE SURE THE LOWER SIDE OF THE 50 DEGREE CUT IS FACING THE CENTER. Do the same to the other end also.

When all the 2x6's are screwed to the two 2x4's, flip over the press and screw the other two 2x4's on the other side directly over top the other 2x4's. When complete, drill holes using the 5/8th inch drill bit, into the 2x4's about 3 inches from the ends. Make sure they are directly over one another. Then run the Large Bolts through the 2x4's adding the washers, wingnuts and caps to the aproperiate sides.

At the time of this writing we are still in the process of building the thing and I'll be updating this as we go, possibly providing pictures along the way, definetly drawings.

Also look for the chainmaille dissertation comming soon to a Duramen.Net near you.